Ever wonder what causes that after-rain smell? It’s a compound released into the atmosphere by Streptomyces Coelicolor, a soil-dwelling bacteria that also happens to produce a blue pigment. Many years ago, it was the discovery of this pigment that first spurred biodesigner Natsai Audrey Chieza to research the potential of microbial dyes, exploring how they could be used to produce the next generation of fashion and textiles. Today, Natsai has become one of the most influential figures working at the forefront of biophilic design, and is the CEO of award-winning agency Faber Futures.
In her latest project, she joined forces with Christina Agapakis of Ginkgo Bioworks to launch Normal Phenomena of Life (NPOL), a lifestyle brand making revolutionary materials for the bioeconomy. Among them are original products that inspire a deeper connection to the living world — think of inks made with algae, garments grown with bacteria or furniture repurposed from organic waste. Through their concept store and platform, they also curate a selection of emerging biotech-enabled brands already making a positive social and environmental impact.
This is Living Campaign, featuring the NPOL Original Exploring Jacket. Photo: Toby Coulson.
“NPOL exists to put biology at the heart of the goods we make, the supply chains we build and the economies we choose to scale,” explains the team behind the project. They work from a deep-seated belief that in order to decarbonise and heal the planet, we need to go beyond choosing low-impact materials and actually harness the natural processes of living organisms.
From slime moulds to silk jackets
The inaugural collection from NPOL is out now, and features unique limited releases including microbial-dyed garments and artist edition prints. The aptly named ‘Exploring Jacket’, for example, is batch-dyed with the help of Streptomyces Coelicolor, which produces bespoke patterns ranging from blue to pink in colour. Compared to industrial textile-dyeing methods, the microbial process is both spellbinding and efficient: requiring 500 times less water and producing no harmful toxins or pollutants.
Left: This is Living Campaign, featuring the NPOL Original Exploring Jacket. Photo: Toby Coulson. Right: Mbeu microbial dye R&D at the Department of Biochemical Engineering, University College London, 2022.
Though the potential applications of these innovations are vast, at this stage NPOL’s products represent only the first flush of fruits from the brand’s collaborations with designers, biologists, engineers, materials scientists and other practitioners whose disciplines have yet to be named. Those looking to read up on the research behind these collaborations can check out the NPOL Journal, which publishes editorial essays and creative insights by leading thinkers like James Bridle and Ayana Zaire Cotton.
This summer, you can also hear from Natsai herself at the 12th edition of WDCD Live in Amsterdam, taking place on 5 July 2024. Alongside fellow pioneers like Dirk-Jan Visser (New Horizon Initiative) and Afaina de Jong (AFARAI), she will share her take on the role of new and old technologies in building a sustainable future. Natsai will also look back on some of her work for other clients like Adidas, World Economic Forum, La Biennale, Design Museum and Cooper Hewitt, and how she advocates integrating design, culture and biotechnology in policy development.
Want to join us at WDCD Live Amsterdam 2024? For more information about the programme and tickets, click here.
Left: Mbeu microbial dye R&D at the Department of Biochemical Engineering, University College London, 2022. Right: This is Living Campaign, featuring the NPOL Original Exploring Jacket. Photo: Toby Coulson.
All images courtesy Natsai Audrey Chieza and NPOL.